Little Walter’s, a modern Polish restaurant in Philadelphia’s Kensington neighborhood, now hosts a monthly gluten-free dinner service after a special event created for one neighbor with celiac disease drew strong interest from diners. The restaurant opened in summer 2024 under chef Michael Brenfleck with the goal of presenting Polish cuisine through a contemporary approach rooted in his heritage. The gluten-free series was not part of the original concept, but a conversation with a neighbor living directly next door led to the idea.
That neighbor is Cammie Storms, who is both Polish and gluten-free. Before the restaurant opened, she told Brenfleck that she had not eaten pierogi for a long time and missed them. The two properties share a wall, and Storms knew that once the restaurant opened, she would be able to smell pierogi being prepared from her backyard garden. She described the experience of imagining those aromas drifting through the kitchen window as both wonderful and frustrating.
Storms had been diagnosed with celiac disease earlier and said the first thing she thought about losing was pierogi. She explained that when she received the diagnosis, she was living in Atlanta, where her gastrointestinal doctor asked what pierogi were. Storms explained that the dumplings are deeply tied to her identity as a Polish person with family roots in Philadelphia and Poland. She described pierogi as the best food imaginable and believed she would never be able to eat them again.
After learning that a Polish restaurant would be opening next door, Storms began asking Brenfleck whether gluten-free pierogi might eventually appear on the menu. Every few months, she sent a text message asking about progress and visited the restaurant to order items that did not contain gluten. During those visits, she asked about the development of flourless pierogi. Storms works as director of sales at La Colombe and previously helped the company expand gluten-free menu options, so advocating for gluten-free food was already part of her professional experience.
Her connection to pierogi comes from childhood memories. Storms remembered her grandmother preparing them from scratch when she was young. During those cooking sessions, Storms would sneak into the kitchen and try to grab one before dinner was finished. Her grandmother responded by tapping her hand with a wooden spoon and jokingly threatening to hit her “dupa,” the Polish word for butt. Storms joked that “dupa” is one of the only Polish words she remembers.
After about eight months of asking about the dish, Storms received an update from Brenfleck that gluten-free pierogi testing had begun in the kitchen. Creating the recipe required several rounds of experimentation. A pierogi dumpling needs a dough that is soft and delicate while still maintaining elasticity and structure. Brenfleck said the kitchen first tried substituting a one-to-one gluten-free flour blend into the restaurant’s existing recipe. Their standard dough contains potato, egg, additional egg yolk, and whey protein, ingredients that provide structure and flavor. The direct substitution did not work well. The dough turned crumbly and broke apart easily, leading to multiple rounds of testing and changes before reaching a version that held together with the proper thickness and texture.
Developing the recipe addressed only part of the problem. Little Walter’s is a small restaurant where bread and pierogi are prepared throughout the day using wheat flour. Preventing cross-contamination during regular service would be difficult in that environment. Brenfleck said diners should feel comfortable about what they are eating in a restaurant and should not face risks related to gluten exposure.
The solution involved dedicating a single evening to gluten-free cooking. Before each event, the entire kitchen receives a full deep cleaning. Brenfleck brings his staff into the restaurant when it is closed, and the six-person team cleans every surface to remove traces of flour. Bread and pierogi are normally produced throughout the day, so the cleaning process requires thorough work across all kitchen areas.
The first gluten-free night followed this process and introduced a menu built entirely without gluten. Dishes served during the event included cornbread, kiełbasa, pickled vegetables, gołąbki, pierogi, and cheesecake. Reservations quickly filled once the event was announced.
For Storms, the evening meant the return of a food connected to childhood. She described the experience of eating pierogi again in a room filled with diners who also follow gluten-free diets as one of the best days of her life. Guests smiled and laughed while sharing the experience of eating foods many had not eaten in years, and in some cases had never been able to try.
Storms ordered several varieties of pierogi during the event and brought extras home. She stored them in her freezer and reheated them later in an air fryer whenever she wanted them.
Interest in the event led Brenfleck to schedule another dinner service with the same format. He said there is strong demand for gluten-free food and that the dedicated evening provides a practical solution within the limits of the restaurant’s small kitchen.
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Each gluten-free night begins with a full deep cleaning of the kitchen and food preparation surfaces. The menu offered during the evening remains completely gluten-free from appetizers through dessert. The selection includes items such as Kiełbasa, Pierogi Ruskie, cornbread, and surówka. Entrées include gołąbki prepared with rolled cabbage and brisket and rotisserie pork served with bigos. Seasonal desserts are also offered.
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Brenfleck said diners attending these evenings often experience foods they have not eaten in a long time or, in some cases, for the first time. If demand continues, he said the restaurant may expand the event to a biweekly schedule.
Storms expressed gratitude for having Brenfleck and Little Walter’s as neighbors. She said more people are receiving diagnoses for severe gluten intolerance, gluten allergy with anaphylaxis, and celiac disease. She described Brenfleck’s effort as an example of a restaurant owner acting as a member of the community while introducing gluten-free dining options for people who rely on them. She thanked him for bringing back a dish she once believed she would never eat again.
